With the recent Admin changes at RJF, we are working diligently in fulfilling all obligations to our clients. The ZK-22 has been a huge hit but we will discontinue sales until all backorders are fulfilled. The CEO, Joe Meaux will be working diligently, without pay, until we take care of all our customers.
Our customers are very important to us and we will reward those who have been so patient!
Thank you for your continued support during this company transition period, as we can finally try to operate and fix this problem without overt control in different directions.
Ya'll are the best customers on the planet and we are grateful for your continued support.
For those who have your ZK-22:
Check out the ZK-22 installation Video below
We are very sorry on any delays but we finally have the improved trigger bar manufacturing process in place and has ramped up our production substantially. We now are having these extruded , so we have a smoother and higher tolerance bar that requires substantially less hand work on our part and no warppage or risk of binding.
When you receive your stock make sure you watch the video, the number one installation error people are making is rotating the cam to tight into the trigger and this is not allowing the factory trigger to reset. You must have some visible air gap between the cam and the Ruger trigger.
Thanks for y'alls continued patience.
The NEW Red Jacket Team!
Tips and tricks
1. Check to make sure the gun is unloaded, magazine out and check the chamber twice from underneath and through the ejection port. Place any ammunition in a totally separate area to avoid confusion.
2. When you are installing the first side of the trigger plate the trigger bar could hang free. You can use a piece of masking tape or a rubber band to lightly hold the trigger bar to the barrel. The bar can be bent if allowed to hang free and excess pressure is applied while threading or manipulating it while threading screws. Remove tape or rubber band before attempting the first fitment into the stock.
3. The splined trigger cam is very snug to retain the assembly and ensure there is no slop. Always rotate the cam to the bottom most position possible, this gives you the optimum leverage on the trigger. Make sure the action is cycled and the trigger bar is fully forward, place the cam on the shaft but don't engage the splines. Rotate the Cam downwards (think the heavy side down) till it just touches the Ruger trigger and back off one spline and seat it. This will get you close. If you need to re adjust or remove the cam, a butter knife or thin flat blade screw driver will allow you to start the removal and get it to the point you can take it off. If it becomes troublesome to remove, TAKE THE SIDE PLATE OFF to remove the cam!
4. The Hex pockets for the body nuts are a very close fit, if you drop the nut in it will tip and you won’t be able to thread it. With the Nut side of the stock up, take each nut and thread it onto a long screw about 1/2 turn. Place in socket and then un-thread the screw leaving the nut flat and at the bottom of the socket. Place the screw onto the provided Allen key and thread in from underneath holding the stock through a center hole! work from a center hole and work out in a criss-cross pattern and just bottom each screw don't snug until all screws are in. After all screws are in place, flip stock Snug the screws in the criss-cross pattern and then go back and add 1/4 turn to fully tighten the screws.
5. Use Graphite dry lube only on polymer parts, oil will make slurry and impede free movement.
6. If you like a bit loser charging handle you can gently flex the detent down to lessen the pressure and ease the fly forward charging, do not press further than 1/8 “ as this will deform or possibly break the detent off .